The Gibb River Road - Part One!

After our quick 3 day Bungle Bungles detour we headed north again back to the start of the Gibb River Road. The Gibb River road is a legendary old stock route that runs through the remote Kimberley region of Western Australia from Wyndham (actually around 30km south of there) in the north to Derby to the south. Although almost all of the area (and the top end in general) consists mostly of cattle stations, today it is probably most well known for its stunning landscapes and rough 4x4 roads.This area is in such contrast to the east coast of Australia as the outback sandstone ranges and Gorges collide with the Indian Ocean. It truly is one of Australia's and the worlds last wilderness areas.

Over the next 3 weeks we would see one incredible place after another and yet the road accessible parts of this area are only a fraction of what actually exists. 

The start of the Gibb!

Almost straight away we are driving towards to South East side of the Cockburn Ranges which dominate this area.

Around 20kms down the road (and still bitumen at this point) is El Questro Station which is possibly the most well known and equally most popular stations on the Gibb. This one station has a taste of almost everything that the Kimberley is famous for within its boundaries. We spent 4 days there and saw less than half of what's on offer.

One of 3 main rivers that run through the station is the Pentecost in which the township is set beside. You need to cross the upper section to access the township and the camping areas.

We made it!

After checking in we made our way down to our campsite called 'Wren" which is perfectly located on the banks of the Pentecost River with a sandstone bluff behind it. Wow!

Day ones plan was to check out Zebedee Hot Springs and then on to Emma Gorge.

Zebedee Hot Springs below. Crystal clear hot springs pouring out of the side of a mountain range. Awesome spot!

After a quick bath we drove back out onto the bitumen and back towards Wyndham for around 10km to Emma Gorge which sits at the base of the Cockburn Ranges. El Questro station takes in the entire Cockburn Range and North to Wyndham. The Gibb runs through the middle of the station.

El Questro's second resort "Emma Gorge". Bush style setting of course.

The start of the 1.5 hour walk through the Gorge starts as you walk up the creek. The Gorge slowly gets narrower. Red walls plunge into the creek bed.

Once you reach the end of the Gorge you are stopped in your tracks by an incredible plunge pool surrounded by straight red walls and a tall but small waterfall (much larger in the wet of course).

On the other side of the pool there's an overhang in which you can swim under and stand on a few fallen rocks. Falling out of the ceiling and off the cliffs above are warm drops of water. Standing in there experiencing this was amazing. I/we have swam in a lot of rock country swimming holes but nothing like this. So unique!

Us holding up the rocks! Lol

Off to the right hand side (no photo) there is also a hot spring just above the water line. This whole pool is being fed by cold water and hot water in different corners. Amazing must see spot!

That afternoon Kristy and I drove to Brankos Lookout which looks over the Pentecost River to the North East. Along the way we need to first cross the Chamberlain River and navigate a pretty steep hill climb.

Once at the top there are stunning views as the river cuts its way through the ranges towards the Cambridge Gulf in the North.

Day two we hired a tinnie and spent the morning cruising up the Chamberlain Gorge/River trying to snag a Barra!

No luck with the fishing but quite possibly the best River Gorge experience of the trip so far as we had it all to ourselves. It's hard to believe this one property has so many awesome features.

On return to camp was the start of a 3 day saga involving 2 rogue donkeys that had trashed our camp site and had eaten all sorts of food we mistaking left out in a plastic crate.

Oh and the 20 odd herd of cattle that also seemed to like our part of the river bank.

After lunch we reported the donkeys to the staff who said they would round them up and put them back in their yard. With this in mind we drove to the top of the second lookout right behind out campsite on the other side of the river. It had great views of the township and camping areas.

We returned to our camp site to find the donkeys had trashed it once again. No food this time though.

Day three the girls decided to hang around the camp site on donkey patrol as they were still hanging around (thanks for rounding them up El Questro). Dad and I headed along the longest 4x4 track on the property to a spot called Explosion Gorge which is the upper part of Chamberlain Gorge.

First we cross the Chamberlain River.

Small side track to Brankos Hole.

Back on the main track that consisted of sharp rock and washouts and we eventually make it to Explosion Hole. Another stunning spot but not much different to the other parts of the river. This one was probably not worth the drive.

We managed to follow a track to the bottom and have another go at catching a Barra but again no luck so we headed back to camp for lunch. The girls and donkeys were still there.

After lunch we decided to risk the donkeys and attempt the drive to Pigeon Hole (at the end of the reach in the photo below. At the top of the range we made it to another awesome lookout, again looking north up the Pentecost River.

The ranger turned up as we were leaving to grab the donkeys so all safe on that front.

Unfortunately the road to Pigeon Hole would have meant sliding over small rocky outcrops so we decided not to risk it this time. 

When retuning to camp we found this. Not again?

By this time I had run out if patience and jumped back in the car and stormed up to see the park manager. We had been telling him for almost 3 days that the donkeys were right beside our camp and he had done nothing. After an admission of laziness it was decided to refund our entire $360 camping fee, give us a $50 voucher to replace food (although the store is very limited), a free shirt (as a donkey chewed one of Dads shirts), and a free meal / booze at the steakhouse for dinner. At $40 per steak etc we had a feast that night!

Overall we had a great time at El Questro and as it turns out it was mostly free! Thanks donkeys!

The next day we packed up as planned and headed for Home Valley which is another cattle station turned tourist park only 30 something Kms down the road. Pretty much as soon as you turn left from the gate of El Questro the road turns to dirt. Here we go!

The road wraps around the south west corner of the Cockburn Ranges before reaching the Pentecost crossing. This is where the fresh water meets the tidal salt water of the Pentecost River. This iconic crossing is stunning with the Cockburn Ranges as the backdrop.

Another 10k down the road which was potentially the worst we would encounter on the entire Gibb and we reached Home Valley.

We decided to remote camp on the Pentecost River instead of at the grassy camping area at the homestead. Check out this for a camping area. On the river bank with the stunning Cockburn Ranges on the other side. Wow!

Carefully flicking a few lures while at the same time keeping an eye on the big salty lying on the bank not far away. Again no fish!

I think this camp has the best views I have ever seen (from a camp site). Photos don't do it justice really. Has to be seen to be believed.

After a relaxing night of live music and great food at the homestead we woke to another stunning sunrise (great shot Mum) and then packed up and continued west. 2 great nights!

To sum up this area - El Questro has a lot of great features but Home Valley has a much nicer homestead and views (without having to drive rugged 4x4 tracks that is). Both are a must visit if in the area for different reasons. 

As always make your own opinions as I try to do. For every person we have met who loves a particular spot we have met another who hates it. Be careful when basing your plans on others advice. Every person is looking for different things, may not be prepared to do what's required to get the most out of where they are (more or less adventurous), has varying opinions on what they consider a good/bad road, and in general has varying attitudes towards everything.

I heard one person say El Questro was boring and there was nothing to do or see there.  We saw less than half of the highlighted features over 3-4 days. Another person hated Cape Leveque (we left there a few days ago) and when quizzed a bit further never made it past the front reception and left as they had to wait too long for their coffee. lol. You be the judge when I add the Cape Leveque blog.

A couple of hours down the road we reached Ellenbrae Station.

After a coffee and some of their advertised scones with jam and cream we continued for another couple of hours down the road. This section was pretty featureless from Home Valley to the start of the   Kalumburu Road. For the next four days we would travel 250kms up the Kalumburu Rd to the Mitchell Plateau / Mitchell Falls and back before continuing down the Gibb. 60km up the Kalumburu Rd is Drysdale Station where we camped for the night before beginning the rumoured shocking road to Mitchell Falls.